This binding technique is used for smaller projects and is basically all done by machine. It's great for table runners, place mats and other smaller machine quilted projects. My way of doing it was inspired by Ricky Timm's process which he used on his CAVEMAN QUILTING video and as far as I know, he is the one who came up with the term 'mock binding' which describes the binding very well. I'm not as free-wheeling, I'm more inclined to use rulers to do my cutting (I can't help it) but it works great. Thanks for the inspiration!!
To make a sample, start with a square about 10" or so which represents a quilt top. Choose a fabric for the backing and binding strips. You'll need a 1" strip for each side of the quilt top. To prepare the strips, cut enough fabic for the four strips with a little extra for trimmimg (I cut strip fabric 5" wide to allow for four 1" strips and cut the length about 3" longer than the longest side of the quilt top). BEFORE cutting the strips, starch the fabric well. I use 'heavy' starch in a can and spray the fabric several times lightly and press each spray. Be sure to cover your press surface with a towel.
Now cut the starched fabric into 1" strips. Sew strips on opposite sides of the fabric square (which would be the pieced top) and press the seam allowances TOWARD the strips, this is important! Trim to square the ends and sew on the last two strips and press and trim them in the same way.
|This shows the strips and the order in which they are sewn to the 'top'.|
|This shows the top basted to the batting and trimmed.|
Now position the 'top' on a slightly larger piece of batting. Pin it in place as needed and with a walking foot on your machine, baste all around the outer edge about 1/8" from the outer edge of the strips. Now trim the batting to the edges of the strips. A walking foot is needed for best results for the entire process.
|This shows the seam and the portion of the seam in the middle that is basted.|
To prepare the back, you need backing fabric slightly larger than the top and batting combo plus enough to allow for the 1/2" seam. Fold the backing in half, right-sides-together and sew a 1/2" seam along the fold. You'll need an opening to turn the piece through (like making a pillow).
|this picture shows the opening in the backing that was used to turn the piece through|
Now position the top/batting sandwich right-sides-together with the backing, don't trim the backing fabric, leave it over-sized. Now pin the layers together and sew all around the edges with a 1/4" seam. Turn the corners with the needle down. The batting will be facing up during the sewing.
|This shows the sandwich going together right-sides-together.|
Trim the excess backing fabric to the edge of the batting and trim the corners. Take out the basting stitches in the backing and turn the whole thing like a pillow. Carefully pull out the corners, press the binding, pin as needed and then using a walking foot, stitch in the ditch along the binding strips.
|Shows stitching in the ditch. I used different fabric for the backing and binding to help show the technique. It's best to use the same fabric, it disguises the seam.|
Now the bound quilt is ready to machine quilt but before you do, hand stitch the opening on the back closed or just baste it in place and quilt it.
Pin the layers together to make sure everything will quilt out smoothly and go for it. This is the stage that will limit how large a quilt you'll be able to manage with this technique because you must be able to lay the whole quilt out flat and pin baste for quilting to make sure you don't get puckers on the back. If the binding doesn't lay flat, you can lightly press it with a lot of steam, smooth it out and let it sit while it dries out from the steam.
I'll do a part Two blog to show some samples and throw in a few tips.
Good Luck!! If you have questions, email me or use the comment box.